Fast, Simple, Delicious Dinner: Beet & Goat Cheese Tart with Spring Onions, Thyme

Super easy and incredibly delicious quick, spring meal.

• Makes one 9-inch tart
• Start to Finish: 1 hour 15 minutes

Ingredients

1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed overnight

1 leek or spring onions, halved and thinly sliced 

3 medium beets, peeled and thinly sliced. I use Love Beets which are pre-cooked
 - available at Costco, Whole Foods

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

⅓ cup crumbled goat cheese

4 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves removed from the stem

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Unfold the puff pastry onto the prepared baking sheet. 
3. Place a cake pan or a plate that’s approximately 9 inches
   in diameter onto the pastry dough.
4. Use a paring knife to trace around it. Remove and discard the excess dough.
   Score the puff pastry all over with a fork.
5. Sprinkle the leek slices evenly over the round of puff pastry. 
6. Arrange the beets in circles on top of the leeks, then drizzle evenly with the olive oil.
   Season with salt and pepper.
7. Sprinkle the goat cheese and thyme on top of the beets. 
8. Bake the tart until the crust is golden and the beets are fork tender, 30 to 35 minutes. 

The tart can be eaten warm or at room temperature.
Take some liberties:

1. Add tomatoes
2. thinly spread a mixture of mustard and a bit of lemon on the pastry
   before the leeks and onions go in.

Inspired (mainly) by: Beet and Goat Cheese Tart | Recipes - PureWow 

voilà le mien!

Beet & Goat Cheese Tart with Spring Onions, Thyme Uploaded by atl10trader on April 19, 2015. Some rights reserved. Follow this link to see and comment on this photo: https://www.flickr.com/x/t/0097009/photos/davidmarcel/17019021749/

Atlanta Food & Wine Festival 2014 Inspires

Cooking is as much about food and technique as it is about experiences. Atlanta's Food & Wine Festival 2014 in Midtown provided memorable lessons that I had to apply quickly or risk forgetting.

Sous vide, pickled seaweed, escabeche, thin fillets of fish cured in a sugar/salt mixture . . . the topics intrigued and inspired immediate imitation.

Corvina Escabeche with Spring Vegetables, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Let's start with the escabeche, (es-kah-BECH-ay), a classic Spanish preparation often paired with oily fish such as mackerel, corvina, or bonito. Its Mediterranean at its essence. Add olive oil to a saucepan at medium heat and the following:

• 3 - 4 tomatoes, cored and sliced 1/5 inch thick 
• 1large onions, thinly sliced into half moons
• 2 shallots, chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, sliced
• bay leaf (remove when finished) 
• 2 Ts of combined basil, oregano, 
• 1 t. of cumin, coriander each 
• salt, pepper
• carrots or turnips (optional, cubed into bite sizes)
• 2 Ts of Espelette Basque Vinegar (or something unique from Whole Foods)

and cook very slowly (3 - 4 hours), covered, over lower heat (I use a 2 out of 10 setting on my induction range so that it cooks caramelized from the inside out vs. fried and charred from the outside in).  At the very end a splash of your best Spanish vinegar tops it off. This makes enough for 6 people.

Prep for fish:

• Portion the fish into 4 - 5oz pieces, 3/4 inch thick (no more) - ask fishmonger for 30oz if serving 6.
• Mix a 1/4 cup of equal parts salt and sugar. Use a tablespoon to spread the mix on a flat dish upon which you'll place the fish. This is now considered face down. If there is a skin on the fish, it is now facing you. Leave face down for 15 minutes.
• Either sous vide the fish at 53 degrees C for 20 minutes or you can prep a pan with medium-hot olive oil and sear with the skin side down for 3 minutes before completely removing from heat.
• If your fish has no skin, make your own! I use sheets of dried seaweed you can get at Trader Joe's and place 1 or 2 on what I designate the skin side. Continue as in the previous step. Delicious.

The whole thing, escabeche and fish, are served cold or at room temperature on a hot day.

It'd be a shame to not eat this al fresco.

This dish and the recipe is what I derived from notes taken during the Food & Wine demonstration and conversation with Asheville NC's Katie Button who is the talented Executive Chef of Cúrate, the authentic Spanish tapas restaurant continually earning rave reviews since its open in March 2011. Many thanks Katie!

Here is an image of the gazpacho I made to introduce the fish:

Tomato & Cantaloupe Gazpacho with Swiss Chard Dolma, Carrot Halva Over Avocado Aioli, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

So long as they don't start patenting food recipes, imitation is the highest form of flattery. How else are you going to learn? Let me hear how you fare and what you choose to pair with the fish!

Communal Breakfast: Recipe for Taking Eggs and Any Relationship to the Next Level

Egg Breakfast with The Temple's Men's Club,
a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Sunday morning I met with my Temple's Men's Club to share one of the best ways to make eggs for anyone they'd like to impress. Everyone brought their own saucepan and a spatula. The Men's Club President-elect brought the ingredients - who I thank for having traveled far and wide in search of the best. I think his effort showed!

This was the event headline:

Learn How to Make the Pen-Ultimate Egg Breakfast

Real Men Know, the Path to Forgiveness, Awesome Dad-ness or Extra Marital Credits Is Through the Stomach.

Here's the recipe.

Ingredients: per person

Ellis Vener Photography

• The best artisan loaf of bread you can find
• 1 Tbsp of the best french butter you can find, preferably unsalted
• Eggs. Organic. Fresh. Qty: 2 eggs per person
• 2 Tbsp Greek yogurt (low fat Ok but not fat free)
• 4 Small to medium tomatoes on their vine. In a pinch cherry tomatoes will also do. 
• 2 Medium, large mushrooms
• Chives
• Sea salt and pepper
• 1 Tbsp olive oil    

1. In a skillet or pan heat some olive oil over medium heat place the tomatoes and mushrooms in with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cook until tomatoes spit and the eggs are done and you're ready to plate.
2. Toast the bread that's been sliced into 1/4 - 1/2" slices.
3. Over medium heat, place in a saucepan the eggs along with the butter (you can add a bit of olive oil before this step to prep the saucepan)(add salt at the end, not now)
4. Do not let the eggs overcook in the saucepan.  Depending on the heat on the pan, spend about 30 seconds on the heat constantly stirring the eggs with the spatula. Take the pan off the heat and continue stirring the eggs. Repeat until eggs begin to thicken and fluff.
5. Time's up when the steam comes off the eggs when off the heat and stirring. To stop the cooking process, add the Greek yogurt and incorporate into the eggs.
6. Add pinches of salt and pepper.
7. Add chives. Stir.
8. Plate like the picture above.
9. Don't forget a mimosa and strong coffee!
   
   

   

   Ellis Vener Photography

A variation on this recipe would be to add some smoked salmon at the end as well.  You could also sauté some kale to go along with the tomatoes and mushrooms.

Here's another example:

Breakfast with Eggs,
a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Dinner Tonight: Super Bowl on the Plate

Lamb and Chicken with Red Onion, Zucchini confit over Quinoa and Tahini Brandade, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Dinner tonight.  The Denver Broncos are enduring a blow out on the largest sporting stage at the hands of the Seattle Seahawks.  It's a bit embarrassing. So we turn our attention to the table and what's being staged there.

Here's a brief recap of the preparations:


Salt and pepper chicken pieces and lamb chops. Pat dry before this step.  Sear meats in a pressure cooker with a bit of oil and high heat - no more than 4 minutes. Remove meat and add chopped onions, celery, and shallots or leeks. Stir around for 5 minutes then add back the meat, zucchini, and herbs (tarragon and sage in this case). Put on low heat for about 45 minutes.

Make quinoa. Add spinach leaves after quinoa is done and resting covered.

Brandade is made by taking 3 Tlbs of tahini sauce, juice of 1 lemon, olive oil, 3 tilapia or similar white flaky fish fillet, dash of ginger, lemongrass, garlic, and salt. Put into a VitaMix or high powered blender and adjust for thickness with water.  Note that there is no diary in this but the result will be quite smooth and creamy in texture!

Spring Dinner: Mediterranean Fish Dish & Radish Relished

Relish the Radish, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Spring brings the cooking itch to a fever pitch. So many good ingredients make their appearance as the farmers' markets remerge from their hibernation. It can be overwhelming on what to choose for a spring evening meal.  Food writers like Kitty Greenwald thankfully know this and make it their mission to help.

Inspired by her recent article from the WSJ (Weekend Edition, April 6 - 7, 2013, "Relish the Radish"), I assembled this salad and added my own garlic onion pesto as a finishing touch. Matched with the salad was a Mediterranean cod dish with olives, roasted peppers, spring onions, and oregano. It made for a beautiful meal on a blissful spring evening.

Fish Dish: Mediterranean Cod, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Recipe for the radish and fennel salad is below along with the wine pairing.


Radish and Fennel Salad
Total Time: 15 minutes Serves: 4

In a large bowl, toss together 8-10 small to medium radishes, thinly shaved, 1 fennel bulb, thinly shaved, ½ tablespoon picked fennel fronds, 4 tablespoons toasted pine nuts, 2 ounces crumbled sheep's milk feta and 1½ tablespoons thinly sliced shallot. Season with salt and pepper.

In a small bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 1 tablespoon lemon zest and 3 tablespoons olive oil. Toss salad with enough dressing to coat. Garnish with extra fennel fronds, feta and pine nuts, if desired.

—Adapted from Jenn Louis of Lincoln and Sunshine Tavern, Portland, Ore.

Garlic Onion Pesto Dressing
Total Time: 5 minutes

Roughly chop half a garlic onion (which looks very similar to a leek) by taking 1/4 from the green top end and 1/4 from the white bottom end (cut and discard the very bottom with the root ends).  Put into a high speed blender with 1 cup of olive oil.  Blend until frothy and thoroughly infused.  Drizzle a line on the plate and serve the salad on top.

Wine Pairing:
Can't go wrong with a Carneros, CA Chardonnay.  In this case a bottle of 2008 Vine Hill Winery Chardonnay, Clements Ridge Vineyard.  Lots of lemon notes and enough body to compliment the freshness of the fennel and radish as well as the zesty tomato base of the fish.

Adieu 2012, Salut 2013! New Year's Eve Dinner Menu

Below is the New Year's Eve menu I pulled together from a variety of inspirations with links to recipes below.  

Adieu 2012, Salut 2013!

Chez Aferiat

December 31, 2012

Menu: Happy New year !

~ Cocktails ~

French 75

Gin, Caster Sugar, Lemon juice, Champagne

Poinsettia Cocktail

Cranberry, Cointreau, Champagne

~ Amuse Bouche ~

Pickled veggies with celery root purée

~ Entrée ~

Butternut squash Creme Brulée

2010 Patricia Green Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, OR

~ Plat Principal ~

Crisp Red Snapper w/Zucchini & Tomato Jus w/

Ginger, saffron, cilantro, coriander, cumin, paprika drizzle

2007 Robin K./William Knuttel Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, CA

~ Les Fromages ~

Boucheron, Délice de Bourgogne, Roquefort, Sweet Grass(GA)

~ Salade ~

Arugula, balsamic infused melon, candied pecans, goat cheese

~ Desserts ~

Pièce Montée: Profiteroles

Chocolate Cake

2007 Quinta do Noval Porto Late Bottled Vintage Port Wine

January 1, 2013 12:00:01

Champagne Toast!

Picking favorites I'd say the butternut squash crème brûlée surprised the guests the most - the way you'd like to be: pleasantly.

Butternut Squash Crème Brûlée, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Chicken White Chili: Terrific 3 Ways

Chicken White Chili, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Lunch today was last night's dinner. Like any homemade soup, it tastes even better when the flavors rest overnight.  Muss & Turner's here in Atlanta actually lists their offerings on the menu under the header, "Yesterday's Soup".

Serve this as a game-day feast or a winter warming weeknight meal.  The key ingredient is actually a leftover item: a rotisserie chicken from your local grocery store or your own.  Eat what you like one night and save about 1 and 1/2 cups of meat for the soup.  It is the best use of what's left from a roasted chicken other than using the bones to make chicken stock.  Adding great chicken sausage from a local butcher like Atlanta's Spotted Trotter is a bonus.  It adds even more layers of flavor.

The first time I came across this recipe it had a Texas twist to it and called for a chopped jalapeno pepper to add some kick.  I modified the recipe by substituting butter and milk items for light coconut milk (though almond milk could also work).  Additionally I finish the soup with slices of avocado and widges of lime and lime zest to give the dish a Thai flavor profile (a dash of Sriracha at the finish would be great).  There's alot of ways to make this goodness all your own.

So the 3 ways are: as rotisserie chicken, as Chicken White Chili for dinner, and then as leftovers for lunch.  Each time it gets better.  I'd love to hear how you vary things.

Chicken White Chili

1 medium onion, chopped
1 large shallot, chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup chopped kale or cilantro
1 tbsp margarine or canola oil
1 tsp ground cumin
2 (15.5-ounce) cans Goya small white beans or cannellini beans (or consider 1 cup quinoa)
2 (4.5-ounce) cans chopped green chiles (use Hatch chiles if you can find them)
1 1/2 cups pre-cooked rotisserie chicken, chopped
3 links of chicken sausage, sliced or left whole
3 cups chicken broth
1/2 cup light coconut milk (Whole Foods or Trader Joes have it) or almond milk
2 tbsp cornstarch

Sliced avocado (slightly salted) and cilantro or spring onions for garnish before serving.


Combine onion, shallot, garlic, a pinch of salt, and canola oil in a large pot. Saute for several minutes until the onion starts to soften. Sprinkle cumin on top to release the flavor. Add beans, green chiles, chopped chicken, chicken sausage, and chicken broth. Bring to a boil. Once chili is heated through, bring back down to just above simmer, and stir in coconut milk and kale (if using cilantro - hold until serving as a garnish). Put cornstarch into a small bowl. Carefully ladle some liquid from the chili onto the cornstarch, and mix to form a thin paste. Pour the paste into the chili and allow several minutes to thicken slightly.  Salt and pepper to taste.

Strawberry Ghosts for Halloween

Here's a fun recipe for a Halloween treat that makes for a great activity with the kids and a lasting memory.  This may very well become a fast tradition.

Juicy strawberries cloak themselves in white chocolate with a hint of almond flavor to make these treats frightfully delicious. Looking at some of these gave me a, "Oh, no! Mr. Bill" moment.



This recipe comes from Nancy Mueller of Highlands Ranch, Colorado.

Serves 30, Total time with prep: 30 minutes



Ingredients:

• 30 fresh strawberries
• 8 ounces white baking chocolate, chopped
• 1 teaspoon shortening
• 1/8 teaspoon almond extract (lemon would also work)
• 1/4 cup mini semisweet chocolate chips

Directions:

1. Wash strawberries and dry completely
2. Microwave at 50% power until melting the white chocolate and shortening in a safe bowl; stir until smooth, then stir in extract
3. Dip each strawberry in white chocolate mixture and place in a plastic container or baking sheet. Immediately press chocolate chips into coating for eyes. Freeze for 5 minutes
4. Melt remaining chocolate chips in microwave; stir until smooth. Dip toothpick into melted chocolate and draw a mouth on each face after the 5 minute freeze

Homage to the Tomato

Tonight's dinner menu was inspired by tomorrow's Attack of the Killer Tomato Festival at Atlanta's JCT Kitchen:

Everything was cooked in my sous vide machine which is reclaiming its spot as an important culinary device thanks to the Vac Master P112 chamber vacuum sealing machine. Can't do sous vide without a good, functional vacuum sealer.  This duo will hopefully be working together for a while.

Above is the tomato and blueberry shooter with parmesan crisp.  Recipe: http://www.wildblueberries.com/recipes/tomato_shooter.php

Above is the tuna tartare. Recipe: http://www.zencancook.com/2012/02/ahi-tuna-tartare-w-avocado-crispy-shallots-soy-sesame-dressing-and-a-little-update/

It's a shame but when the evening gets going, I am often forgetful in taking pictures especially as the meal progresses!  The better the dish, the more likely I dive in without snapping a photo.  Will try to refrain in the future.

Some additional photos from another photographer who participated in the meal last night:

Saffron Scented Halibut

Spring Pea, Ramp, Garlic Onion Soup

Spring Pea, Ramp, Garlic Onion Soup, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Spring Pea, Ramp, Garlic Onion Soup

This morning marked the beginning of the farmer's market season at the Peachtree Road Farmer's Market. And what a morning - low 70s and sunny.  Don't let this end.

Lots of plants on sale for gardens and lots of greens and radishes on display.  A friend gave me the recipe below clipped from the Wall Street Journal, so ramps and spring onions were on my mind - and soon in my lunchtime soup.

Ingredients

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 medium sweet onion, diced - or ramp or spring onion

1 small head green garlic, sliced, or 1 clove garlic, sliced or garlic onion

Kosher salt, to taste

2 cups fresh, shelled English peas or frozen sweet peas, thawed

½ cup lightly packed fresh tarragon leaves

What To Do

1. Melt butter in a 4-quart saucepan over medium-low heat. When butter begins to foam, add onion, garlic and a generous pinch of salt. Cover pot and cook until onions are very tender, stirring frequently and not allowing them to brown, 10-15 minutes.
   
2. Add 1 quart water, increase heat to high and bring to a boil. Add peas and tarragon and cook until peas taste sweet and tender, 1-4 minutes.
   
3. Immediately transfer to a blender or immersion blender. (Do not fill blender more than halfway or contents may overflow when blended; blend in two batches if necessary.) Purée soup. OPTIONAL: Strain soup through a fine mesh strainer, pressing on solids with the back of a spoon, into a clean saucepan.
   
4. Reheat soup. Season to taste with salt and serve immediately. Garnish with leftover spring onion and toasted pistachio nuts.

Elderberry Sun Brewed Tea, Atlanta, GA, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Washed it down with some elderberry tea brewed in the sun.  I keep a batch of simple syrup flavored with mint.  Combined with some spearmint growing in the garden, this made for a refreshing drink. And it will again this evening if I add some vodka as part of the pre-game evening festivities.

Burrata Brings in the New Year: Another Epsiode of Making a Wow Dish in Someone Else's Kitchen

You feel like a culinary burglar when cooking in someone else's kitchen:

• A little hesitant with a foreign countertop, knife, pantry.  
• Pulling open 2 or 3 drawers for an item.
• Getting the timing right with another's oven, stovetop, even toaster.

I've mentioned the rules I follow when helping cook a meal in someone else's kitchen.  Here's an updated set of rules for when you volunteer (or are asked) to cook the entire meal as I did for a New Year's Eve dinner:

1. Keep it simple:  The less equipment you touch, the better.  A recipe with less than 7 easy ingredients will also keep you safe and things simple.  Adapt dishes that you've made before.  
2. Give yourself twice as much time: You'll need it.  Hosts will ask questions, you may need to make a last minute ingredient run, etc. Take time with the prep and be social while getting everything ready.
3. Be gracious, give credit to the helpers/host, and clean up.

Here's the menu for a New Year's Eve in beautiful Carlsbad, CA for a group of 7.

New Year's Eve Menu Carlsbad, CA, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

The evening began with a St. Paul de Vence, a sparkling wine cocktail named after its location in the south of France. Click on the photo to see how you can easily make it. You can taste the effervescence of the sparkling wine with notes of apples and amaretto. It's an eye opener.

Cocktail St. Paul de Vence - Click to see ingredients, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Next came the first taste. We actually changed the order of the menu and served the butternut squash soup first (simply because the guest who made this delicious creation did not make enough!)

Butternut Squash Soup, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Next dish served is a go-to dish for me if I can find fresh burrata: plated with basil pesto and simple, roasted tomatoes. As the rules say, it's easy, uses a few ingredients, and feeds the eyes as much as the appetite.

Burrata, Basil Pesto, Roasted Tomatoes, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Here's how to make this dish:

Ingredients for 4 people:

• 1 pkg of burrata (sold at higher end grocery stores) - sliced correctly serves 4 people
• 4 big tomatoes - in season
• 3 packages of basil (or 4 bunches) - remove the stems
• handful of either pine nuts, marconi almonds, shelled pecans
• 1/2 cup of olive oil

Steps:

1. Prepare an ice bath
2. Steam 3 cups of water heavily salted
3. Place the basil in a colander and pour the boiling water over all of the basil to turn it a bright green
4. Immediately put the basil in the ice bath to retain the bright color and stop the heat from cooking it
5. Put the basil, nuts, and slowly drizzle olive oil into a blender until the mixture is smooth
6. Cut the tomatoes into slices the width of your index finger, salt and pepper the slices and drizzle with olive oil
7. Put the tomatoes on a cookie sheet into the oven at 400 F for 45 minutes or until you see them nice and roasted
8. Slice the burrata
9. Plate the dish as shown in the picture

By now everyone's in the mood with the right amount of wine and food.  It's like a confessional - I know the meal is working when people start discussing great food they ate in the past.  Still helps to keep passing the wine around too.

Japanese style Snapper in Ginger Oil and Sautéed Mushrooms, Green Onions, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Any fresh fish will do - even whole fish. The trick to this dish which is often served in parchment paper, is to tightly wrap and tuck the paper before steaming it in a pot for 10 minutes - shortly before serving. Salt and pepper the fish before and after. The green onions and parsley are added with a little lemon zest and then some heated ginger oil is ladled over the fish as it is plated.

The dish is served on a bed of caramelized fennel and onions, rice infused with coconut milk, and with a segmented wedge of grapefruit. The citrus adds a perfect contrasting touch of acidity to the dressing and ginger oil as well as dash of color to the plate.

I added an extra side of roasted parsnips in a tahini/greek yogurt and honey dressing. Delicious as it was, I could have saved some time and pressure without it.  Stay simple.

The evening started and ended with sparkling wine, great company, a few resolutions, and plenty to cheer about in a hopeful, new year.  Leave a comment if you have a question about the dishes.  Make a resolution to try some burrata.

Happy New Year 2012, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Plan Ahead for Next Year Using This Year's Thanksgiving Dinner Recap

Chez atl10trader Atlanta, GA, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

This will not happen next year.  It would be too soon to host 12 persons.  That's not as huge a number as you might guess but it includes parents and in-laws so it becomes more than just an exercise in eating food.  Fortunately everyone gets along amazingly well. But hey, next year it's someone else's turn.

Maybe yours?

Here then is a recap in photos along with some of the recipes of what made it to the table.  Oh and things get off to a good start by serving some non-vintage Champagne with warm cashews and almonds.

First Course

Thanksgiving Chez atl10trader Atlanta, GA, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Roasted Fennel with Parmesan and Warm Radishes in Harissa Butter. Easy first dishes to excite guests.

Roasted Fennel for 12:

1. Clean 3 bulbs and cut off stalks.  Slice off the very bottom of the bulb.
2. Slice 1/4" thick the fennel and toss in a bowl with sunflower (or other high heat) oil, salt, pepper, and optionally a dash of zatar spice.
3. Line a cookie sheet with foil and spread the fennel on the sheet.  
4. I caramelized the fennel by cooking it at 325 degrees F at the bottom of the oven with the turkey for 2 hours and it turned out amazing OR
5. Cook the fennel at 400 degrees F for 45 minutes in the middle of the overn until a little char starts to form.
6. Drizzle with some good olive oil. Sprinkle with parmesan and serve warm.

Main Dish and Sides

Thanksgiving Chez atl10trader Atlanta, GA, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

Cider Braised Turkey with Lager Gravy Served with Mushroom, Celery, Caramelized Onion Stuffing, Green Beans with Shallot Vinaigrette, and Cranberry Compote

Cider Braised Turkey with Lager Gravy:

This recipe came straight from the pages of Food&Wine magazine November 2011.  I only substituted a kosher turkey for the steps involving salting the bird overnight.  A kosher turkey is an excellent way to enjoy a bird that retains its juices and cooks flavorfully.

The Wine

Thanksgiving Chez atl10trader Atlanta, GA, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

It's Pinot time and few are finer than Gary Farrell.

I'm sharing notes collected by CellarTracker.com.  I personally think the community way under scored the wine - possibly because many (including me) are drinking it a bit early. No matter. I gave this beauty a 93.  Excellent American Pinot showing restraint in offering notes of cherry, strawberry jam, and cola/hazelnut. Went perfectly with everything served.  Very enjoyable.

Dessert

Thanksgiving Chez atl10trader Atlanta, GA, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

My children hopefully will have permanent and fond memories of cooking these pies with their grandmother.  Featured above are apple, pumpkin, and my favorite, mince meat.  Even if I had the recipes for these beauties, I would not have the touch or hand to pull them off as good.

And that's one of the best ways to make hosting a Thanksgiving dinner possible: Make it a potluck.  Give everyone a task to do - even if it's to get out of the way: Go outside to toss a baseball or sweep the deck!

I'm most interested in your sides eaten at Thanksgiving.  Feel free to share in the comments.

The Sous Vide Machine Comeback

My own homemade sous vide machine, a photo by atl10trader on Maison Marcel.

The sous vide machine made its first appearance in almost 6 months tonight.  In anticipation of holiday guests this year, I nominated a kosher beef brisket in my freezer to be my trial run.  Luckily the machine still operates perfectly - much to my surprise.  My only question was how long to cook it and at what temperature.

The internet has all kinds of suggestions.  'It depends' is a standard issue response.

• How thick is the cut? (thicker = higher temps, longer times)
• What kind of cut is the meat? (the more sinews and connective tissue = higher temps, longer times)

I read 80 degrees Celsius for 24 hours. I read 48 hours at 55 degrees.

My machine has a constraint: I don't get above 70 degrees Celsius for fear that it starts to melt my water circulation pump. Had that happen once already - the tribulations of a home built machine from someone who knows the feat is impossible to repeat.

Here's how I cooked the beef brisket:

24 hours at 66 degrees Celsius.  The result was a pink all the way through cut of meat that was tender and flavorful.  The meat was medium and I like my beef medium rare i.e., with a little more free flow of juices which this attempt slightly lacked.  I made a very effective and delicious harissa gravy using the liquid from the bag.  The dish was rounded out with roasted acorn and butternut squash and a Chad Merlot.

Roasted Butternut Squash, a photo by Bruce Tretter on WestboroughPatch.

The meal won praise from my toughest critic, and I enjoyed the meal.  My improvement for the next time will be to lower the cooking time to 18 - 20 hours and give the meat a good sear and resting period before serving.

My next project will be to do short ribs for 48 hours +.  It's really the cut of meat the most praised when cooking sous vide.

Negroski Perfection

Negroski Perfection, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr. Miller Union in Atlanta, GA makes a killer version.

Here's the first of a two-part post celebrating the drinks that can bookend a memorable meal. Since I'm not a fan of bourbons and whiskey, I've been in search of something refreshing to cleanse or even prepare the palatte.

The Negroni satisfies both though traditionally it is an aperitif served before a meal - the Italian Campari component gets the juices flowing. I prefer the Negroski which replaces the original gin ingredient with vodka:

Ingredients:

3 Oz. Soda Water
2.5 Oz. Campari
2 Cups Ice Cubes
2 Oz. Sweet Vermouth - As with anything, better ingredients make for a better result.  Don't skimp on inexpensive sweet vermouth. Go for something great here. I had mine mixed with one derived from Barolo!
1 Orange
5 Oz. Vodka

Mixing instructions:

Cut orange in half. Slice 1 of the halves; place in pitcher. Juice remaining oranges to make about 1/4 cup (62 mL) juice; add to pitcher. Mash slices gently with spoon.

Add vodka, soda water, Campari and sweet vermouth; stir to combine. Add ice.

This recipe makes 3 servings.

See Mixologist Eben Freeman, of Tailor restaurant in New York City, demonstrate how to make a Negroni. I like the flaming orange twist at the end. 

Spring Dinner Menu

Here's a great spring menu I did for dinner tonight with mother-in-law and friends.

Shashimi Spring Salad, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

1st Course
Shashimi salad of salmon, white tuna, and red served with several sauces: champagne soy sauce, basil aioli, grapefruit sabayon, and a dab of hot sriracha. This was further accompanied by pickled watermelon radish, zucchini, celery, and carrot.  Some blood orange and lemon slices also made it on the plate. Get the freshest ingredients possible. Sriracha was purchased at asian store. Recipes for the rest:

• Basil aioli: just added blanched basil to this recipe
• Grapefruit sabayon

Zucchini Soup with Basil Croutons, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

2nd Course 

Zucchini soup with basil croutons (recipe).  A great spring soup containing no oil, no cream (just a small pat of butter for the onions to get going). Light, healthy but deceiving in its rich taste.  A keeper.  

N. Carolina Flounder, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

3rd Course 

North Carolina flounder served with caramelized spring onions, orange infused fennel and blood oranges. I prepared the fish using my sous vide with herbs and lemon zest. After sealing the contents under a vacuum, the bags were placed at 57 degrees C for about 35 minutes.  They were then pan seared for about 30 seconds. Basil aioli streak made it on the plate as well.  Why flounder? I asked the fishmonger at Whole Foods what was the freshest item he had in the case.

Spring Wine Pairings, a photo by atl10trader on Flickr.

The Pairings 

What we drank with our meal.  

We started with a thimble of St. Germain in the glass with champagne.  Tasted the shashimi with the Tokaji.  Enjoyed the bracing lemon acidity of the Albarino with the flounder.

Let me know how your version turns out!

See more photos of meals at home via my Flicker set: Food @ Home

Challenges of Cooking in Another's Kitchen: Parsnip Soup Shake

Here's my new go to recipe when I find myself in the following scenario: You're an invited guest at a wonderful home and asked to prepare a dish as part of an elaborate, festive meal. My simple rules in these cases:

1. Keep it simple: You're using unfamiliar equipment with a history of quirks that only the owner knows about. Don't rely on it other than to warm things up or boil water - go beyond this with an abundance of caution. A recipe with less than 7 easy ingredients will also keep you safe and things simple.
2. Be a supportive character: Don't upstage the main dish (too much :) This means be healthy. Avoid richness or heaviness that will detract from a main dish or bring unwanted attention to yours.
3. Be gracious, give credit to the chef/host, and clean up.

My previous go to recipe is still a great one and follows the rules above:

Green beans in a Shallot, Dijon vinaigrette. Trim the ends, steam them in a double boiler, and then (most important) immediately dress the vegetable with the vinaigrette (oil, vinegar, lemon juice). Season with salt and pepper.

I've upgraded my dish because it's so easy to make and such a crowd pleaser. So much for not upstaging the main dish! The soup is served in any glassware that you'd serve a milkshake in. A highball cocktail glass will also work. The sweetness of this soup comes from the natural sweetness the parsnips bring when roasted as well as from the caramelized onions. The tiny white chocolate drizzle is tiny - 1 tablespoon on top.

Depending on what's in season, I will switch between the two.

Parsnip Shake Soup with White Chocolate Drizzle & Cocoa shavings

Ingredients: Serves 4

1. 2 yellow onions, diced
2. 2 lbs parsnips, peeled and cut to 1/2 inch dice
3. 2 cups vegetable broth
4. 1 cup Greek plain low fat yogurt
   
   
5. 1/4 cup white chocolate chips
6. 1/4 cup milk or almond soy milk
7. pinch of cinnamon
8. dark chocolate shavings

Start with the onions. Put them in a saucepan with a little canola oil, salt and heat on medium high until fragrant and slightly translucent. Then cover and lower to a very low setting for 90 minutes - 2 hours. Check every so often too make sure they are not burnt or doing anything but releasing their juices.

Roast the parnsips. Line a cookie sheet with foil and a bit of cooking oil at 400 degrees F for 45 minutes or until they just start getting brown on the edges.

Combine all non-drizzle ingredients. Add the onions, roasted parsnips, vegetable stock to a pot and bring to boil then lower heat to medium-low and add yogurt. Use a handheld soup blender to reach a smooth texture. If the soup is too thick, add some stock. Ideally let the flavors combine and rest in the refrigerator overnight.

Drizzle. Carefully bring milk or almond soy to a near boil and add white chocolate chips. Stir constantly until chocolate is melted. Add pinch of cinnamon. Let cool but not settle.

To serve: warm the parsnip soup, fill a glass, add 1 tablespoon of drizzle on top, and sprinkle with chocolate shavings.

I've served this at the end of a meal, but I think its best at the beginning. I give all the credit for this creation to Executive Chef Drew VanLeuvan at ONE Midtown Kitchen in Atlanta, GA who served a version of this to me and my wife. I was blown away and determined to recreate its genius and creativity. Good luck!

Breaking Down a Birthday Menu: Short Ribs and BLTs

Inspiration comes from anywhere.

While eating at Midtown gem, Empire State South, for my birthday lunch my mother-in-law mentioned during the amazing plates we were sharing that sometimes she's perfectly content with a BLT sandwich. Poof. Inspiration.

I thought about how I would elevate such a simple delight into a beginning taste for the meal I was cooking the next day.

Here's the menu I created to celebrate a lot of December birthdays featuring the BLT:

~ Entrée ~

Bacon Laitue Tomate fraîche à l'aïoli

BLT on toast points with fresh aioli

NV Prosecco with St. Germain Elderflower liqueur

~ Salade ~

Légumes marinés avec vinaigrette verte

Pickled vegetables in glass with green aioli dressing

2008 Kingsford Manor Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley

~ Plat Principal ~

Boeuf braisé wagu aux légumes-racines

Wagyu beef short ribs with root vegetable medley

2005 Krutz Family, CA StageCoach Vineyard, Napa Valley

~ Desserts ~

Gateaux d’Anniversaire

Birthday cake!

NV Prosecco with St. Germain Elderflower liqueur

Port

BLT description:

White bread, cut into smaller squares, lightly toasted. Smeared with a fresh homemade aioli. Leftover leaves from cutting and trimming brussel sprouts served as my lettuce. Topped with turkey lean bacon and a tomato slice.

Pickled Vegetables description:

I am always placing fresh cut veggies into a sugar and Heinz white vinegar solution and keeping the mix refrigerated. In the mix were carrots, celery, watermelon radish, cucumbers, really anything. These were given a quick dice and then served mixed with the same aioli I made for the BLT with some added thyme-infused Dijon mustard from France I had.

Main dish description:

Here's how I made the short ribs: trim as much fat as possible from meat beforehand. I seasoned and browned the short rib sides under the broiler for about 10 minutes each side. I then added chicken stock, some mirepoix and a bay leaf to the baking dish (halfway up the side of the meat - not completely) and let it cook at 375 degrees for another 30 minutes. This was then chilled in

the refrigerator overnight. All the fat from the meat comes out and floats to the top of the pan to congeal.

The next morning this is the best way to remove even more fat and is very effective. I remove the meat from the pan and do not use anything left in the baking dish - it's too oily to use. The meat goes into a dutch oven that was also refrigerated overnight with roasted vegetables and a cup or two of broth. The combined ingredients then slow cook for 2 - 3 hours on the stovetop - giving everything time to combine in flavor.